TRAVEL | Boat your way to the world’s largest river island in Northeast India

TRAVEL | Guwahati

Assam's Majuli faces flood fury — and the threat of erosion — whenever the mighty Brahmaputra river swells. So take a break from your high-tech lifestyle and boat to the world's largest river island.

Cruises on luxury vessels can take you to your destination, but to experience life as the locals does, it is best to travel on a rickety motor boat, which can also carry cars and bikes from Neemati ghat to Kamalabari ghat.

After a half-hour ferry ride, you will reach the shrinking island home to approximately two lakh people consisting of Brahmins, Kalitas, Mishings, Deori and more.

Visitors can stay in various resorts, which might remind you of your hostel days due to availability of only basic amenities or limited homestays. While driving to your accommodation, you will see paddy fields and bamboo plantations along the roads.

Out of the various house forms, the bamboo stilt houses — with an open fireplace in the middle — of the Mishing tribe are quite unique and you will see women working on looms made with bamboos and a cycle's wheel.

Mishings here make "mekhela chador" and other traditional outfits for self-use And men make beds out of bamboos or other furnitures, when they are not farming.

Majuli, a hub of the Assamese neo-Vaishnavite culture, has many satras (religious and cultural institutions). "Earlier, there were over 60 satras in Majuli but due to erosion, there are currently just 32 satras here. Auniati Satra is the biggest one in Assam. The land measures up to 500 bigha," Anant Kalita, the satra's museum guide said.

"We don't call ourselves monks or pandits. The ones who stay in satras are called Vaishnavs. We worship lord Krishna. We dance, pray and do dramas, which were created by (saint-scholar) Sankardev," he added. The satra is open to all — Brahmins, Kalitas and people from other communities of Assam.

"Even Muslims can come. Ladies can come but can't stay in the satra. After marriage, people need to stay out of the satra. "There are 350 people in the satra. Vaishnavs and bhakhts stay in satras, the ones who are outside are called disciples," said Kalita, who has been here for the past 18 years.

The Samaguri Satra, on the other hand, has kept alive the tradition of mask-making. Its studio houses numerous masks, like those of Narasimha, Ram and Laxman that are used during festivals and Bhaona, which is a traditional form of entertainment through which religious messages are shared.

Explaining the process of mask-making, popular mask artiste Hem Chandra Goswami's brother Tilak Goswami said: "The masks are made of mud, cotton cloth, cow dung and vegetable colours. One mask takes about 15 to 20 days to make."

Feature image courtesy: youthkiawaaz.com

IANS